Exterior
A brief check of the car should give a pretty good indication of what to expect on closer examination. The vast majority of Imprezas have been sold to enthusiasts or the curious who then became enthusiasts. The result is that there are numerous examples available that are in excellent condition. If you are presented with a shabby, tired-looking Impreza then you may not have reached this far in the inspection. If you have, you might want to rethink.

Bodywork and panels
Begin at the front of the car as this is where stone chips are most often found. Damage will mostly be found on the bonnet (hood) and front bumper but the number of chips should not be excessive. Where there are chips, look closely and make sure the marks have not penetrated the paint completely, otherwise corrosion could develop. Make sure the bonnet scoop and the two small vents are not loose.
Open and check underneath the bonnet. On the whole, rust should not be apparent although this cannot be guaranteed on older models. While the bonnet is open check the engine bay is in sound condition.
Moving to the side of the car, door panels are thin and susceptible to those annoying car park ‘dings’. Look at the panels from different angles to see if there are any small dents that show up in different light.
The roof can also suffer occasional stone chip damage, so look closely. The plastic runners along each side of the roof should be secure and not move excessively. Look into the ‘gutters’ where the runners are housed and check for any rust, as rain and dirt collect here. Open the boot (trunk) and check where the plastic runners meet the bodywork. Water can also collect here and if the area is not properly cared for and cleaned, rust will eventually set in. There are rubber plugs in the boot lid (trunk lid) to stop it rattling when shut – because they rub against the main bodywork the paint and primer will eventually wear away, and rust may develop.
Check the rear spoiler is secure; the larger STi spoilers will flex while those on the Turbo and WRX cars are more solid.
Examine the bumper attachment points and areas where extra bodykits may have been secured; these points are the most common areas for rust. Also ensure any bodykits have been securely fastened.

Body service
As well as the regular engine servicing, Subaru also recommends bodywork servicing. The frequency and timing depends on the length of the anti-corrosion warranty; for example, on a MY95 Turbo the inspections were after one, three and five years. Each service follows the same format and ensures all areas have been treated with cavity wax. If areas have become dry or show signs of flaking, they need to be retreated. Particular attention is drawn to inside doors, bonnet, wheelarches, headlight area, box sections, boot-lid and door pillars while underneath the car all box sections and cavities need to be checked. If these services are not carried out the anti-corrosion warranty is invalidated. Check receipts and the service book for confirmation on any work undertaken.
One aspect of the anti-corrosion warranty to remember is that it applies to corrosion coming from the inside out. This means that stone chip damage that leads to rust is not covered, so look closely for deep chips because they will need treating if more serious damage at greater cost is to be avoided.

Paint
The paint code for the car is located on the vehicle identification number (VIN), stamped onto a plate located in the engine bay. The colour will also be printed on the registration certificate (V5). If the code does not match the car, make sure you’re happy with the reason for the difference. The colour should be consistent and glossy all over the car; any differences in shades or excessive paintwork may be concealing accident damage, so ask what repairs have been made. Another way to check for resprays is by looking in the spare wheel bay in the boot or underneath the doors; these are areas that may have been neglected in any ‘dubious’ respray.

Shut lines
Because of the straightforward shape of the Impreza, it is easy to spot if the panels and shut lines are as they should be. Check the panel gaps are uniform.
The rubber seals on the windows ought to be clean, well-maintained and pressed firmly against the window; if pockmarked and loose, they may need replacing. This is important to check because the Impreza’s windows are frameless, so the seals are essential in keeping the rain out and the inside dry.
The bonnet should close flush and evenly. If not, check if the headlights have been replaced with aftermarket ones, particularly on the classic Imprezas. If badly fitted, they could have an effect on the bonnet’s shut line.
The front and rear bumpers should have an evenly spaced gap with the main body. If not, check they are firmly attached. Similarly, check any bodykits have even lines with no large and unsightly gaps.

Exterior trim
A strip of plastic or rubber can sometimes be found down the side of the Impreza to protect the door panels. Just make sure it’s properly fitted and secure, otherwise it can look cheap. The same goes for any other exterior trim or bodykit that has been added. Lower front bumpers and side skirts can make the Impreza look more aggressive and desirable, but with poor workmanship they can just appear tacky.

Wipers
The Impreza has two front wipers with three different speed and frequency settings, as well as a manual spray button that will simultaneously trigger the wiper blades. They should move smoothly across the glass with no juddering, otherwise they may need replacing. Not all models were fitted with a rear wiper, particularly the older classic editions, so don’t expect to see one as standard.