Road test
Assuming the car is sound, safe, and road legal, driving it is an obvious next step. First press the brakes and see if the pedal moves as soon as the engine starts (indicating the servo works).
Try to witness a cold start, as excessive smoking or poor starting can be hidden by warming the car beforehand. Listen for engine clatter from the timing chain or top end, and listen for driving knocks, clunks, whining or moaning noises in hubs/suspension and driveline. Drive with the windows down to listen for brake and suspension noises (poly-bushes can squeak). The car should accelerate cleanly and very strongly and pull up straight under hard braking, since the Series 3 used the biggest E-type servo. Juddering normally indicates warped or corroded discs and/or suspension problems. Series 3 E-types have anti-dive geometry at the front, so any pronounced dip can signal tired torsion bars. Make several low speed full-lock turns to check for wheel rubbing or power steering noises. The limited slip differential may creak a little at full lock but should not clonk or whine significantly. Check the handbrake works and releases fully, especially if the car has remained unused for some time. It should hold the car on a hill, especially with the leverage from the longer Series 3 lever.
For those not used to the power and smoothness of the Jaguar V12, an apparently well-performing car may actually be misfiring on one or more cylinders or conceal other substantial faults. There should be no smoke under acceleration once fully warm, or on the overrun. The V12 engine is extremely durable and can easily last 200,000 miles but needs proper oil and coolant changes. Try an envelope or loosely folded sheet of paper behind the tailpipe while the warm car is idling. This will amplify the noise of any ‘off-beat’ rhythm and point to low speed misfires, although few engines idle perfectly.
Watch the temperature gauge as overheating is dangerous, and make sure the fans kick in when the engine gets hot. Low oil pressure at idle is normal but should rise with revs. What sounds like minor exhaust leakage can be a major issue due to inaccessibility or stud or casting damage.
In most respects, an E-type road test is much like any other: if all seems well and you make it back to base without drama you’re ready to progress.

Concours contender
With a supposed ‘concours’ car you ought to be able to take many aspects for granted pending more detailed checks later. Assuming the major components are standard, the devil is in the detail. Knowing how ‘correct’ a car is needs experience, but buying a top award winner (not local shows) is one way of ensuring you get a good one. Otherwise you’ll have to research what’s correct for ‘your’ car (Chapter 16 has sources).

Under the bonnet
Are all vacuum hoses the correct type? Are the brake reservoir hoses correct, with a yellow stripe, and are all heat shields present? Do the reservoirs have filters inside? Are the water and other hose clamps correct Cheney or Jubilee type? Are the throttle linkages and brackets cadmium-plated, with spherical rod joints or later cylindrical ones? Do the hydraulic cylinders have the original date tags, and is the pressure differential valve present? Is the radiator foam seal present, and is it correct, with fibreglass (early) or metal (late) cowl? Are the footwell vent ducts present with the correct mesh (late)? Are the cam covers ridged with a cast-in ‘Jaguar’ (early) or decal (late)? Is the coil dated correctly, and the ballast resistor fitted in front of the right bank (early) or further back (late)?
Are all fasteners the correct type – with special ‘long’ Nylocs on the frames? Is the harness cloth-covered, held by plastic strapping (not cable ties) with a period style battery fitted? Are minor electrical items, such as switches and senders correct? Does the car have the right alternator and power-steering pump, and the carburettor rain shields with original-style decals on the air filter boxes, coil, etc? Are the carburettors and air cleaner assemblies good and the fuel cross-overs, gulp valve, and other engine details correct, with distributor top and leads the correct black colour? Are all bulkhead grommets present?